St Augustine Way - Moneglia to Chiavari, Italy

Day 5. 

Just a fantastic evening being wined and dined.

I had been corresponding with somebody who had walked part of the Via della Costa as we were doing, and they lived in Chiavari. Tonight we were having our evening meal provided by somebody who had also walked the same path we were currently completing and a former Pilgrim.

I'd been corresponding with Joanne (originally from Canada) about our walk, my walking business and had been invited for supper. At 6.30pm laden with our gifts of wine an apple cake we met Joanne in Piazza Manzini and were promptly taken back to her apartment. The evening was an absolute delight, with shoes off and coats hung up we were whisked into the kitchen and sat round the table and just talked about walking and life in general. Not only was she a translator but a flute player for a rock band.....And, it is such a small world that she had been born in Leeds - 15 miles from where I live and 20 miles from Claire.

Joanne had many tales to tell of meeting and walking with Pilgrims and their experiences, all of which were very familiar to Claire and I after our journey from Rome last year.

The night revolved around eating several bowls of home made hearty soup and fresh breads, a fresh walnut salad, followed by our own apple cake. All washed down with our red wine, which I think Claire was disappointed with because she couldn't find one for €10 or more and it wasn't a superiore. Joanna supplied a bottle of their own red wine from their small vineyard which made ours look like Aldi's own brand grape juice. I think we could have talked all night and probably might have, but Sue was visibly wilting with the lurgy so we drew the night to a close.

It's experiences like the one we had just received really demonstrate how nice some people can be. As total strangers we were made so welcome and I'm sure we left as friends. We hope to reciprocate when Joanne comes to England.

www.abbeywalks.co.uk 

St Augustine Way - Levanto to Moneglia, Italy

Day 4, 19km.

Sue was definitely under the weather and with the lurgy she decided to not walk and continue by train to Moneglia. Claire and I popped next door to the bar for our now regular Cornetto (croissants) a la creme's and coffee and with breakfast over, fresh bread and focaccia for elevenses to nibble on, we were walking along the promenade of the seashore.

After just 10 mins we were once more climbing steps and ascending from sea level to about 200m. After crossing a road we headed downhill on steps and then narrow pedestrian streets. The guide notes which I'd loosely translated into English mentioned passing villas with gardens of beautiful blooms......mmm it's winter what should we be seeing now we both questioned.

We quickly passed through Bonassalo and once again we were soon climbing the hillside and passing through the scrubland. As our path turned the corner of the headland the sea unfurled far below us, a vivid turquoise blue in the sunlight. Our path took us very, very close to the edge of the cliff and as Claire got her phone out to take a photo, it dropped out of her hand. It skittered and bounced forward getting closer and closer to the edge and then over to thankfully come to rest at a thorny bush. Claire gingerly made her way to retrieve it and yes as I write this she is still with us and did not fall over the edge. It is difficult to put into words just how spectacular this section was and how narrow in some places it was. It has to be experienced, but you have to like heights.

What ever goes up always has to come down, I think I'll mention that to Archimedes. At the end of our path we descend a very steep, rocky path, very very slowly, passing through the Valley of the Blades and back along the cliff top to Framura.

No sooner we were down then we were back up again, passing through the sleepy hamlet of Anzo before climbing a monster set of stairs that just went on and on. Thankfully at the top there was a picnic bench but no oxygen tanks to replenish the lungs.

After a much needed rest we meandered along typical Ligurian narrow pathways through Ravecca and Sette two more small hamlets. The latter with an ornate Lavoire (Wash house). We continued to climb and at the top met several gunmen out shooting, I assumed wild boar.....anything that moved. A walker, who passed us by said "Don't worry they don't shoot foreigners". Mmmm were not convinced!

At the end of the track we descended a very steep, rocky, slippy path. Part way down we met someone that we thought was maintaining the path. We exchanged the obligatory Buongorno's and it transpired he was making soil ramps for his mountain biking friends.......I politely mentioned that he was loco. How and why do people come down such ridiculous terrain on a bike? Probably because it's there.

Once on level ground we progressed into Deiva Marina, found two benches, one each and with boots and socks off we had lunch. It is so refreshing to have your hot sweaty little piggies kissed by a gentle breeze while you rest.

After a decent break we redressed and burst forward for our final ascent of the day - 2km uphill from sea level to 350m. Our path initially was on a concrete road but at the end we headed into the woods and up again. We had mentioned to Sue what our route would be and how long it would take and at the top..........there she was.

After squeals of delight from all of us, we made our way, all together down to Moneglia, happily chatting away once more.

www.abbeywalks.co.uk 

St Augustine Way - Caste to Levanto, Italy

Day 3

We woke before the dawn had broken and soon into the Pilgrim routine of packing the rucksack, ensuring nothing was left behind whilst for some of us drinking strong Italian black coffee. For me there's no other way to drink coffee.

By 7.30 we were bidding farewell to our lovely abode, made even special by our next door neighbour, Marco popping round the previous night to welcome us to the village.

Our path continued up and up the hillside, through Caprena and at the saddle of the hill we met up with a local hunter. After some Italian exchanges he pointed us in the direction of Volastra. 1km later at a path junction I checked my GPS as there were no signs for our route. It transpired that we were heading in the wrong direction. It probably was another way to the village but not the one we wanted. We returned to where we had just come from and although he was still there, he seemed to ignore our presence. At the right path we took the steep decline down a cobbled and broken stone path. It was well into midmorning and the with the sun high in the sky the temperature was climbing. At the bottom of the hill we reached a wide level track and followed it to the end.

In Volastra (10km) we went in search of a cafe but it is not tourist reason and everywhere is closed up until March. At the local mini market we bought supplies for lunch and an espresso and returned to the Piazza of the church to rest and have second breakfast. After 15 mins and much faffing by all of us we were soon on our way and our journey continued along the narrow terraces of the vineyards that hugged the cliffside with the sea glistening in the sunlight far below us. Soon there was an almost vertical ascent up the into the wooded hillside to reach the main rd. At the top we rested, naturally, Sue was having problems with a blister and decided that as there was another 18km ahead she would call it a day. Claire decided to keep her company and I pressed on eager to finish the day before it got dark.

After a section along the road I was soon heading into and around the wooded ravines and the 4km along it was hard and very strenuous with some very steep climbs and the odd stream to cross. 

Back on the road I visited the Convent of the Maddona of Reggio situated well away from the road sleepily sat on the side of a hill. This would be a good place to return to and stay the night. There was even a little cafe open but I did not have time to stop.

With 10km ahead of me I pressed on as it was 14:30. Back on the road I made good time and after a further 150m of ascent I was finally descending towards the end of the days walk. At the Convent of Soviore I decided that I need to rest my feet and refuel. With boots & socks off, feet up on a bench I dined on bread and cheese and my goodness it tasted so good.

10 minutes rest was too much time wasted walking but much needed and with boots on once more I marched on. I had walked the route virtually at home in the office using google maps and street view so I knew I was nearly home for the night. After one finally section on the main road I was soon back in the woods on a dirt track which was slightly more comfortable on the feet and arriving at Fontona. 

From that point I relaxed knowing that the last few kilometres were along the suburbs of Levanto and so if it got dark that was ok. I'd tried to contact Claire to let her know of my progress and enquire about them too, but I'd had no signal all day. 

By 17:00 I was arriving at the Piazza del Popolo in Levanto and the end of the days walk and 31km walked.....all in shorts and T-shirt in January.

I asked a local if he could show me the way to the Piazza where my hotel was situated, he pointed across the road and as I arrived at the doorway, Claire rang to say she'd just arrived too.

www.abbeywalks.co.uk 

St Augustine Way - Sarzana to Caste, Italy

Day 2

Well a very hilly day today from Sarzana to the medieval village of Caste, perched on a hill on its own. Total population 15.

The route initially took us along a very busy road where we took shelter behind a crash barrier for 1km before leaving it in the distance. We've walked along cobbled pathways and up and down steps carved in the ancient woodlands as we passed through villages and hamlets. Just after midday after a strenuous ascent we were rewarded with a stupendous view across the city and gulf of La Spezia called the Poets fountain.

After we passed through the hamlet of Straw we once again ascended the hillside to the church of Pieve di Santo Stefano, now currently undergoing restoration, but in the Piazza we were once again rewarded with an unspoilt view over La Spezia.

The final part of the day saw us descend down an ancient stairway and through a small wooded valley before final crossing a Roman footbridge to reach Caste. Our accommodation is on three floors and shaped like the letter L. One room at the bottom and three bedroom at the very top. It's old, rustic and belongs to an artist and is suitably dressed and adorned with his artwork on the fabric of chairs and pictures. The middle floor has the original frescoed ceiling. 

After 24km, a bottle of the local red wine and a scrumptious simple meal because I had to carry the ingredients in. We all settled down to relax and were in bed by 9.15pm.

www.abbeywalks.co.uk 

St Augustine Way - A Gregorian Mission - Part 2

Saturday 20 January, 2018
Well after a long day we've arrived and as three Pilgrims we will walk the 29km to Sarzana in the morning. This will be the second stage of the new St Augustine Way - A Gregorian Mission. The route starts in Rome and finishes at Canterbury Abbey and will be launched in 2019.
We will be walking for 2 weeks along the Via Della Costa to Menton, then I'll be on my own following the Via Aurelia to Arles.

Day 1
An early start from Massa to Sarzana today - 29km although it is possible to make it shorter during the tourist season and accommodation is more available. 
The route took us through terraced vineyard high above Massa passing Roman and Medieval architecture and marble factories along the way. The weather was 15 degrees and sunny, perfect for shorts.....maybe tomorrow.
Today I saw my first Coypu swimming in the canal just outside Sarzana. The day ended with a walk up to the military Fortress Sarzanella that overlooks the town and a cold beer in the Piazza.

www.abbeywalks.co.uk 

Stage 12. An early morning cool start to the day.

Pont-d'Arbia to Siena, 28th October 2017

Distance from Rome: 283km

It was a truly memorable evening in the restaurant chatting to the various Pilgrims, each one of us extolling the adventures we had had along the way. At one point Claire tried to relieve a Canadian pilgrim from his very scrummy looking cheesecake, but he was quick off the mark and bravely fought her off.

Despite the main road being below the bedroom window we all had a good nights sleep and before the cockerel had a chance to wake up and crow, most of us were up and dressed and the first troop leaving before the sunrise. We soon followed and we were in the bar before 7am ordering breakfast. Before we left, other Pilgrims were heading in to order their breakfast and that was when Claire and I learnt a new Italian word...........Krapfen. Yes it sounds very German but it actually means doughnut.

With supplies bought before the supermarket had officially opened we were leaving Pont-d'Arbia behind and heading across the fields to join the direction of the railway. The morning was nippy with a crisp air, Claire was dressed in all her warm clothing, including hat and gloves. Carlo was repeating the word allora again a lot and commenting on how cold it was. I on the other hand was still wearing shorts, t-shirt and warm top, just pootling along. The sun was very low in the sky and the hills masked the early morning rays so for a few hours we were walking in the shade. We passed two dogs running wild in a field and Carlo mentioned that today was another hunting day. I'm not sure what they were hunting or looking for because there was absolutely nothing to be seen. 

Initially the way was easy going as we followed the railway line along stony white tracks. We walked through Quinciano with the strange sided Cappella Pieri Nerli dominating the hill as we approached the village. Our journey took us close the edge of Monteroni d'Arbia and from the many high points of the journey we looked down upon it.

The Via Francigena has now many unofficial routes and it can be quite frustrating when the path just circumnavigates a carpark instead of going straight ahead - in the village of Cuna one such detour now exists. From both directions of the VF path there are signs that pass the village by. This is a huge shame as in the village there is the Cuna Grange, now sadly encased in scaffolding but it is one of the best preserved medieval fortified farms. Fortified to safeguard the storing of grain and other cereals. In the 12th century the site was  a "Spedale", lodgings that assisted Pilgrims and merchants travelling along the Via Francigena.

15km into the day we came across a bar and decided to take a quick break. The day had become a bit of a route march as Carlo had a bus to catch in Sienna to connect with a train in Florence that would take him home. Everyone was tired and it was a warm and humid day. We found a table outside and quickly unloaded some food and ate it without too much chatter while Carlo had a coffee and a quick pee. 

In no time at all we were back on track..........or so we thought. I recalled this section from last time but with new signage it was decided to follow that. In no time at all we were walking between allotments and to a dead end. Carlo asked a local the way and he just waved in the opposite direction. We retraced our steps and now I was guiding people the correct way but Carlo was sure in his mind that the route was on the other side of the track and set off that way. I stopped with Claire, checked the map and the GPS and yes I was correct, there was an underpass at the station. We called Carlo back and explained the direction of travel and off we went again, chomping away.

After passing under the railway line we came to a road and once again the signs disappeared, we went this way, then that way and then stopped and Claire re-enacted the route South. Eventually we on the right course and once again we stomped our way forward, mindful now that time was not on our side for Carlo. We followed the main road across a new pathway for 3km before resuming across fields at the edge of Sienna.

I had mentioned the details of the terrain and whether there were many hills before we set off and everyone was aware that the final 5km was to be an uphill climb to the city. What I had not mentioned was it was uphill all the way on a small Tarmac road that was a short cut to the main road below us. Effectively it was like walking on a race track, with us dodging the traffic and switching from one side of the road to the other to keep visible to the traffic.

By now Carlo was late in arriving, Siena was in our sights but not appearing to get any closer so with bus stops on the road, he sought advice from some of the locals on whether he could get a bus from here. I don't think it was made very clear but when a bus did arrive, he moved closer to the middle of the road and waved at the driver..................the bus slowed down and then carried on ignoring Carlo. Well Claire and I were not surprised................we were in Italy.

Eventually we walked through the main gateway of Porta Romana and bid farewell to Carlo. Yes, he made the bus on time and yes he managed to get his train home.

Carlo will join me in 2018 as we walk along the South of France to Arles, I look forward to his company once more.

www.abbeywalks.co.uk 

Stage 10. A long dusty track

Radocofina to San Quirico, 26th October 2017

Distance from Rome: 232km

Whilst in Radocofini last night we had all visited the local grocery store and been introduced to two local Tuscan dishes, both involved bread. The first Panzanella, a dish of onions, tomatoes, bread, oil all chopped up and serve cold.

The second was Ribollita, a warm soup that basically contains any vegetables that are left over. These are placed in a pan and with the lid on made to sweat until they start to give of a juice. To the juice is added oil and finally bread. The secret is to let it go cold and then reheat the next day and the more time it is reheated the better and more mature the vegetable stock becomes. 

We had been told which restaurant to go to the night before and booked a table because they were so popular. Once seated we all ordered Ribollita and soon it was brought to the table. A steaming large bowl of hot vegetables, beans (flageolet) and bread with a ladle in for us to help ourselves. We all had three helpings it was that good.

Back at the Ostello we had spread our things around a six bedded room so that we could keep it to ourselves, and after a really good night sleep we all woke early to get a good start on the 32km walk ahead.

As Radicofani is on a hill, naturally the first six kilometres was all downhill. The road being a mixture of walking on the grass verge by the road or on gravels tracks when there was the opportunity to leave the road behind. Part way down we came across a sheep that had escaped out the field. Carlo managed to open the fence enough for the sheep to get back in and I proceeded to try to round the sheep up. It had other ideas. Every time it tried to get back in the field the silly think just ran straight into the fence rather than through the gap that had been made. Eventually the sheep got fed up this game and ran like mad away from us, we gave up to but left the fence open. Hopefully it did not get run over.

When we turned onto the main road and stopped going downhill the path again move away from the road and followed the river bed. It as easy going and it was nice to be safe from being run over by crazy Italian drivers.

From following the river bed we turned left past the ancient village of Formone and once the home of a post station dating back to the thirteenth century and a chapel. Now it has been made into a modern home. 

There is a saying....what goes down must go up, and true to that from we started to ascend round the hillside and into the next valley. We were blessed with warm weather and very little clouds in the sky so we had spectacular views all around us of the Tuscan hillside as well as back to Radicofini every now and then.

Italy is peppered with medieval buildings and ancient pathways, sadly all to many of them in a bad state of neglect or disrepair. We passed through a small farm and chapel that was once the site of the Hospice of Bricole and a major resting place on the Via Francigena. Among its guest, Phiippe Auguste, the King of France and Charles d'Anjou's troops in 1288.

In the 10th century it was mentioned as Abricula by Archbishop Sigeric. The farmhouse is a derelict mess and the beautiful tiny chapel that still has traces of the original paintwork has sadly been used to house farm animals and is now just full of poo! Why o why......this could be such a wonderful treasure for Pilgrims to rest or pass through again for them to receive their vitals!

By now it was getting towards midday and it was hot and humid and with the mention of lunch I explained that I was familiar with somewhere not too far away. We pressed on and soon cam to the spot, except it was not the one I had in mind. We stopped and despite the area having a fair scattering of dog poo, we were too hungry and foot wary to care. We just made sure that the pesky flies stayed away from any food. needless to say it was not too pleasant and we certainly did not take our time to each lunch. 

Before finishing two pilgrims came towards us also looking for somewhere to sit and eat, there was no space near us and feeling guilty mentioned that we had passed by somewhere close to where we were currently. I pointed the spot out, a shady place for two complete with a table and a view across the valley. It turned out that they were two American Pilgrims, but only walking a short section and only carrying day bags. Their main luggage being transported for them.

After a quick lunch we left the dog poo and the dog to add to the collection.

We pressed on continuing to wind our way through the hillside along the tracks, every now and then stepping to one side as a car appeared, past us and covered us in a shower of dust...... A bit like being crop sprayed every now and then. 

By late afternoon we descended the hills side and briefly up the up the other side of the valley to Vignoni Bagno, home to a thermal natural spa, a big posh hotel and a large square thermal pool around a courtyard. Claire was eager to paddle in it but it was not one of those places so instead we decided to go for a beer and put our feet up and rest for a while.

With the heat of the day and being tired the beer soon left its mark on me and once my shoes were back on I rather squiffly got to my feet and set off on the final ascent of the day. 250 metres straight up to the village of Vignoni, a small ancient stronghold with a Romanesque parish church and a tower from the eleven century castle.

By 4.30 we were entering San Quirico it origins being Etruscan and the earliest mention of it being in 712AD. Our home for the night would be in one of the medieval buildings above the tourist information office in the old part of the village.


www.abbeywalks.co.uk