St Augustine Way - Noli to Pietra Ligure, Italy

Day 12. Noli to Pietra Ligure 24km

Total walked: 255km

Well every story has to have an ending and this is the last day with Claire and Sue. We were up with the larks and we'd secured free breakfast in the bar because our B&B does not serve until 8am

From leaving Noli we were immediately ascending the hillside, past the ruined church of San Lazzaro and then to the promissory point and the ruins of Santa Margherita. The wind was blowing a bit despite the humidity so we did not stop for too long. Back on the trail we past the old farmhouse that now houses the wooden roof trusses and all manner of other things from the church. Everything left open to the elements as the door swung to and fro in the wind.

The walk notes have been interesting to read and interpret and today was no exception. We continued to climb on the narrow scrubby path lined with oak and pine, past two red robbers.....yes it mentioned to red robbers. These turned out to be two red rhomboid signs.....

At the summit is the local Carbinieri (police station) which I believe is there because permits need to be bought to walk through the park during the height of the season. 

I find days like today exciting when there is something special to see and you have people who share those same passions and today was going to be a special day. After passing a camping sight we picked up a stranger, or should I say he picked us up......a lovely old black and white sheepdog that walked in front of us, stopping every now and then to make sure we were going his way.

At a small hamlet an old Osterio was being rebuilt which sat perched above a prehistoric cave, we chose not to venture round to have a look as it was already going to be a long day. It was a bit surreal seeing a huge yellow mobile crane in the middle of nowhere going about its construction business.

For me it truly was a fabulous days walk, cooler, accompanied by a wild wind with unexpected splashes of sunshine. We walked through the now very familiar pine and oak woodland, soft leafy trails and when I can I love to kick my feet through the crunchy leaves. We slowly descended into a new valley through towering limestone gorge like edges.

The second special moment, if the cave was not one of those, was the three Roman bridges that criss crossed the red earth and over boulder strewn dry stream beds. Two were in very good condition and the third left in ruins. This was obviously a Roman road and so caled,l Via Julius Augustus.

Back on tarmac we weaved our way through olive groves and vineyard terraces, occasionally taking a short cut to avoid the long winding hairpin bends. This is mountain climbing country and one such route stood epically like a majestic giant proudly showing its size. Sorry thats not for me, I'll stick to walking it not so far to fall if you do!

Finalborgo was the first habitable place we passed through, again there were strong Roman influences around. After passing through the 13th Century Royal Gate into a maze of charming cobbled piazzas with numerous Osteria, bars and Ristorante, quite a few vegan friendly, which with the outdoor climbing, mountain biking, running and walking shops clearly marked this as a centre supporting outdoor sports.

After looking at various menus and one that even offered and English breakfast , we settled on one which just turned out to be an ordinary bar for Claire and Sue's Italian bean soup (Zappa fagioli) and tomato ( pomodoro) bruschetta for me. I don't think she liked the English or was having an off day as I never received any cutlery for my bruschetta which turned out to be two pieces of toast, so I settled on using my penknife much to the amusement of the lady on the next table.

Our final ascent took us virtually straight up, we took our time, stopping every now and then to see the view......there never was one just trees but Sue that it was funny as she called......"let's just stop to admire the view". On the ridge the churches of San Martini and San Maddelena overlooked the wide bay of Pietra Ligure from a lofty cobbled Piazza fringed with scots pine and stone planters filled with red and white cyclamen. After a fair rest and before we got too cold we descended down cobbled paths through a few more delightful medieval settlements, with tiny churches and piazzas overlooking the sea. Before arriving in Pietra Ligure and settling into our accommodation before searching for a well deserved beer!

www.abbeywalks.co.uk 

St Augustine Way - Savona to Noli, Italy

Day 11. Savona to Noli 17km

Total walked: 231km

With just a short day we decided on a late start which was perfect for me as I am now full on lurgy'd. We popped across the Piazza for a lazy breakfast.

Before long we were tracing our steps back to the Cathedral where we finished the previous day. I just love Claire's comments and once again I have to quote her delights of the first kilometres travel.

"The first 6km was an uninspiring drag along the edge of the noisy, car fume smelly sea front road, through down-at-heel suburbia brightened only by the colourful cake, bread, meat, fruit and vegetable shops and cafes, neatly presented with pride by their owners". 

Along the way we spied one of Claire or Sue's lastest renovation projects. A large, elegant, but sadly dilapidated Art Noveau house standing in what was once a prime position by the sea, with beautiful gardens that were probably very manicured. It now stands sadly trapped between a main road and the urban sprawl of Savona.

At the back of the property were beautiful carved stone sea view balconies with elaborate wrought iron designs, now slowly crumbling. At the front below an impressive central tower sweeping marble steps grace both sides and the front.

Our journey continued and took a small detour to cross a medieval bridge, also now sadly neglected. prior to returning the the sea shore we passed under a railway tunnel 1.7m clearance height......we just made it through.

We kept as close as we could to the sea shore but the main road on our right reminded us all to often that it was not to be a quiet first part of the day. In Vado we again took a break, this time for second breakfasts as well as killing a bit of time. 

We'd been lucky so far and had travelled along an easy level path but as the heavens unleashed some rain we donned our Ponchos before venturing into the foothills and the penultimate climb of the day. There had been a large fire during 2017 and the landscape was still raw with the evidence. Fire blackened pine trees some clearly showing signs of the sap that had oozed out of it due to the heat. Like dripping candle wax that had set hard it was a sight to see.

We descended on a loose gravel track along the hillside, past Roman Caves that were hidden in the dense foliage, to Spotorno. We were not carrying any supplies today as there was plenty of places along the way to eat. It was after 1pm and tummies were rumbling so we stopped at a cafe / bar that advertised no table service......not a good sign. Claire and Sue went into order and soon they were tucking into fresh green salads and chips al fresco whilst being watched by two young seagulls hoping for scraps. They were out of luck today and eventually grew bored and flew away.

The air was getting cool and so we pressed on and the final short climb of the day before descending down steps and through the medieval gateway of Noli. We wound our way along the narrow streets and through a pedestrianised arcade to reach our B&B Casa dei Mombri.

After checking in and being received warmly like long lost relatives, we ventured out to wander across the beach on the wide sweeping bay, overlooked by the hilltop fort high on the hill.

Noli is a place to return to.

www.abbeywalks.co.uk 

St Augustine Way - Arenzana to Savona, Italy

Day 10

Arenzana to Savona. 21km, flat.

It was forecast to be a foggy day but the sky stayed grey but it was very humid so it meant another day for the legs to be out.

After a reasonable breakfast in the hotel we were out of the door before 8am and then a quick stop for water bottles to filled at the Piazza water tap. Why pay when you can get it free?

The route was to be a flat one along the sea front and along the disused coastal railway line; through numerous dimly lit tunnels , past pebble, rock and sand bays. Stopping every now and then to watch the numerous bird life around us. As we exited the tunnels we were met with the soothing roll of the sea washing along the shore and the occasional clicking of pebbles moving gently with the rhythm of the sea. 

After 11km and with no rush today, we arrived at the small seafront town of Varazze where we sat outside for a cappuccino at a street-side bar and to Claires amusement
the ‘keep your knees warm’ monogrammed fleece blankets were chained to the chairs! 

The final 10km to Savona continued briefly through railway tunnels and then the coast but was spoilt by the busy Via Aurelia road on our right. As we approached the busy port of Savona we spied a heronry nestled at the top of several trees and not far below and main road that swept between the hillsides.

At the medieval clock tower we turned right to enter the city centre passing along Art Nouveau corridors lined with shops. We'd not taken any lunch with us today and after finishing the days walk at the Cathedral we beat a hasty retreat to find lunch. Claire spied some chairs outside with attractive fury seat pads and was immediately distracted. Unfortunaltey it turned out to be just a bar so was immediately discounted. 

In a covered Piazza we sat down and the ladies had the local bean soup washed down with wine and I settled for a health Tuna Nicoise salad and water. 

We had priority access to our overnight accommodation and so I called to say I had arrived.....no answer. We made our way to the apartment and tried to call again.......no answer. We retired to a local bar to seek shelter and a beer and after repeatingly receiving no reply to my phone calls I called bookingdotcom some two hours later. 

After over 3 hours I was finally told that somebody would meet me at the apartment. Met by the owners daughter who could not speak English, it transpired that the owner was in Brazil!. And his was the only number t call. The apartment was shared by others but we did have our own bathroom and sleeping space in an elegant, quirky 4th floor period apartment.

www.abbeywalks.co.uk 

St Augustine Way - Genoa to Arenzano, Italy

Day 9

Genoa to Arenzano 24km

We woke to clouds with a hint of sun and rain and left the apartment early, i'm well and truly lurgy'd now and Claire is ever so slowly recovering. 

The walk today was a bit like marmite....you either loved it or hated it. "15km flat stretch of urban walking along the heavily utilised coastal strip which separates town from sea. Interesting but not pleasant, passing graffiti covered buildings, stacked containers, busy docks, factories, immigrants, poverty, dog poo; breathing in the fumes from car, lorry, motorcycle and trains whilst subjected continuously to their noise" - as quoted by Claire. Next time she's getting the train for this section 

After 15km we reached Voltri and I was nervous about the next part of the walk. I was conscious that somehow we had to negotiate two motorways ahead of us and even walking the route virtually along the motorway, I was unable to see how we were going to get through......alive.

With trepidation we continued along the road through the village of Crevari until there was no road left. Our route continued between road barriers and along what was left of the old road although very diminished and overgrown. Between motorways we bravely walked on, the path getting narrow and narrow and more overgrown. Just I thought we were going to have to jump over the safety barriers and walk along the hard shoulder we spied what looked like a tunnel. 

The path turned right and yes there was a tunnel blissfully unaware of the dangerous above its head, we were so pleased to see it. We safely negotiated the motorway and then skirted round to follow in safety behind a fence, with the road only feet away. 

The final kilometres saw us winding our way up hill and downhill between the bridge bases of the motorways high above our heads. At one point carefully crossing where there had been a landslip before descending down to the quiet unassuming town of Arenzano. After a quick check in to our top floor apartment with balcony and sea view, we retired to the local bar for our first gelato.

www.abbeywalks.co.uk 

St Augustine Way - Genoa - Rest Day, Italy

Day 8

Genoa rest day

Well it was nice to wake up and not have to walk. Breakfast was brought to us a 9am and was ok, but not a full English or even a partial one.

As is always the case for me.....the priorities are wash as much of my clothes without having to wander around in the birthday suit all day. Catch up on blogs and rest the legs.

Genoa is a calling point for the big cruise liners and the town itself is steeped in history. Resting is always my priority so I left the sightseeing to the ladies.

After resting most of the day, Claire called mid afternoon and we got together in the Piazza for a pasta lunch. The ladies had wine....well they are on holiday, I stuck to water.

I returned back to the apartment to complete some more work and then decided to stretch my legs and have a look around the Cathedral. St Augustine who's journey I am recreating spent some time in Genoa and so I decided to venture to the Monastery. Sadly the church itself has been deconsecrated and the main part of the monastery was destroyed in the second world war. The building was unusual in the the cloister was triangular and is still in place today. I had a wander around the modern museum within the footprint of the abbey but it did not provide any more information about Augustine.

Back at the apartment dinner was in full swing and no sooner was I through the door when I glass of vino was passed my way. Dinner was a wonderful evening, a simple meal, wine and good conversation and a bit of reminiscing about the walk so far.

9pm we were retiring to our rooms ready for the walk ahead in the morning.

www.abbeywalks.co.uk 

St Augustine Way - Camogli to Genoa, Italy

Day 7

Camogli to Genoa 25km

After two mild cloudy days we walked today in a mix of light and heavy showers drifting in from the sea. Our first opportunity to try our new walking ponchos arose when the heavens opened. We sheltered in an open garage and donned our ponchos and waterproof trousers. Sue’s was the best one. Claire had not tried hers on with a pack and once on it looked as though it had been sprayed on, it was that tight. She decided to revert to the over the top look instead. Mine, well it was easy to get on but required a third party to pull the back down over my walking pole. After deciding to wear my waterproof trousers at the last minute, the giving birth technique worked better. Simply described, take off rucksack from under the poncho and reverse to reapply.....much easier and perfect if you have no friends.

Photographes of us wearing them will follow, just imagine Quasimodo and you’ll get the idea

Our journey took us up and down along narrow paved pathways following the undulating contours of the coastline, softened in comparison to previous days but nonetheless with numerous steep, near vertical flights of steps up and down as we made our way from Camogli with atmospheric, dusky early morning light over the pretty harbour. We passed through Recco up to the Torre on the headland, jamming ourselves and packs alongside newspaper reading locals into a small village roadside bar en route for our usual cappucino/Crema cornetto Calzione ( breakfast). 

We descended into the pretty village of Sori, yes that's it's name and then climbed once again through woodland to Pieve Alta before descending to Bogliasco where the huge stone viaduct carry the sea hugging railway line over the beach and town. Once more we ascended steps and weaved our way along terraces to the Santa Maria sanctuary and over the final headland down to Nervi where we lunched at the White Bistro. A food heaven, with a fabulous young owner. We dined on fresh home made focaccia of various combinations and chatted to the locals, one of which was heading to London that afternoon

I continued alone to Genoa whilst, both weary from fighting the Lurgy, Sue and Claire. My journey continued through suburbia, meandering around the narrow streets and finally the last few kilometres along the traffic snarled roads of the centre. As I made my way to our accommodation for the night I spied two women with rucksack on looking very suspicious, hang on that's Claire and Sue I said to myself. 

Tonight we are in an apartment that overlooks the Cathedral, literally you could almost touch it. On the 5th floor, yes there's a lift, it's early 1900s, has huge high ceiling rooms, an incredible bathroom with central circular tiled bath ( quite big enough for four people ) and floor to ceiling windows which open and look out onto the substantial black and white, marble clad, impressively carved and decorated Duomo. 

We celebrated Sue’s recent unexpected award by the Royal Horticultural Society for services to Horticulture, dining at (what turned out to be) a brilliant restaurant, Ristorante Rustichello. Tonight will be beans on toast at the Apartment !

 www.abbeywalks.co.uk 

St Augustine Way, Chiavari to Camogli, Italy

Day 6

Chiavari to Camogli 21km

After a good nights sleep and and even better night being wined and dined with Joanne, Claire and I set off just before the daylight broke. We were leaving Sue behind again today but she was going to join us for the last 6km for climb up to and through the Portfofino National Park.

The air was cool but not cold and we sat outside for breakfast at a little cafe near Piazza Mazini. We popped our heads into the Signora dell'Orta Cathedral with exceptionally large frontage and rather too much, inside less opulent. Our journey continued to weave through the suburbs, eyes fixed to the pavement to avoid doggy landmines that have been unfortunately all to common on our walk so far.

After a quick climb up through the woods and past a world war 2 bunker we reached the Sanctuary delle Grazie that provide unspoilt views back to Chiavri. After taken advantage of a water fountain we pressed on all the while slowly climbing before levelling off to reach the church of San Pietro in Roverto. 

Steps both up and down have become our usual way of traveling on this voyage of discovery and today was going to be no exception. Unfortunately I had committed to start counting them before we set off on day 1 and I was not going back to start again.

We descended, yes down steps, weaving along a small alleyway that eventually brought us the the town of Zoagli, gazing in wonder as our walk notes had told us to as we descended down steps from above another church. Crossing the Piazza children were laughing while they enthusiastically played football and another group of smaller children sat patiently on a wall waiting for their teachers next instruction.

We passed through up more steps and then along an ancient cobbled pathway set in the olive groves of a peaceful hillside. It was nice to be at the top as it was easier on the legs, the steps are starting to take their toll, certainly for me. We weaved our way around the winding road, with olive groves and vineyards scattered in the hillside, before descending into Rapello. 

Rapello is another of the sea fronted towns situated in a large cove but had clearly once been a main thorough fare for the Romans. We passed the very large single span Roman Bridge called Annebel, not sure why that is but it is a nice name. It is reputed to be more than 1000 years old and at one time had a river passing underneath it, unfortunately and very sadly it is a busy road.

In Santa Margherita (14 km) Sue joined us and we all sat and relaxed in the sunshine by the marina eating our lunch. There was a bit of a nip in the air so we did not loiter too much. With one more hill, and a big one - 500m, Sue removed the extra 2 kilos she did not need to be carrying and passed it onto me. Yes, chivalry is not dead yet.

The journey was arduous to say the least and in places very steep and interspersed with the odd group of steps. We steadily made our way up through the Portofino National park, part way up heading layers as the combination of the humid air and sunshine rapidly heated us up to near melting point.

At the top we were expecting fabulous views but all we saw was the way we had come and if there had been a more direct path we could have saved time and distance. By a strange small wetland area that had been created by the side of the path, we turned left and made our slow descent to the end of the day. Passing a small shrine and a picnic area side by side the walk notes had mentioned passing ceramic polychrome of Via Crucis! In English this turned out to be religious shrines depicting scenes from the bible, all completed in ceramic mosaic tiles.

The final part of the day saw us winding down a very steep path through small clusters of houses only accessible by the path. Part way down we had to step t once side as a moped came hurtling down the hill with a small child on. Fortunately the path has a small slope on side for such purposes and although I can ride a motorbike, I don't think I would have liked to be going up or down the path on one.

Tonight we are staying in an apartment with a balcony and sea view and I think Claire is coming down with Sue's lurgy as she is tired this afternoon.

www.abbeywalks.co.uk