And now I am on my way!

Wednesday 24th June 2015

After a banquet of pasta, tinned vegetable and tuna for protein all washed down with half a carafe of red wine, I slept like a baby last night. Another early start as its a 28.5km walk today. After breakfast which was a veritable feast of cold toast I found in a tin, warmed up in the toaster with blackcurrant jam. Soon I was on my way and quickly got into a steady stride as I headed to the various villages I would pass through today.

I am off piste now and had plotted a course hoping that I would not come across any Prive notice that would mean a long detour. The kilometres rolled by and in Brazey-en-Plaine I came across a cafe so I took advantage of taking the weight of my feet and grabbing a coffee. Now as some people know I do like a good coffee, strong and black. But here in France I was soon to be reminded that over here in Le France it’s different. Why do they serve it in such small cups that really belong in a dolls house? One gulp and it’s gone! All the pleasure, all the fun of savouring and smelling the roasted beans …..poof, disappeared before you know it!

Well I hovered around a bit longer and eventually paid and left to go next door to the Boulongerie and my next adventure. With no real food for lunch except emergency muesli bars carried over from England I was hoping to get a sandwich and some other delights for lunch in the sun. O dear, they did not do sandwiches and with three Madams gazing at me with mouths virtually open with what was on my back, I rapidly pointed to something and said Der soil voice plais. 

Now last year when I was walking with my cycling chaperone, besets friend wifie (she does not mind in the least being called that), our mid morning snack was always croissants or pain au chocolate. But one day with non available I was treated to a heavenly snack, food from the gods and I have not had one since I left last year……until now. Custard filled chelsea buns!!!!

Well there has to be some goodness in them, there are eggs so that’s protein and I am convinced there a few more of my five a day in there somewhere. With two custard filled buns purchased, I skipped out of the shop and quickly launched into one and tucked the other away for an afternoon reward for having walked so far.

Not far out of the village I arrived at Montot and while looking at my map and GPS to confirm whether I was going to stick to my planned route and a possible detour back or continue on an easy option though the village, a battered van rolled up and stopped. Bonjour….blah blah blah he said, I pointed at my map and indicated I knew where I was thank you. He looked at my map and told me to go straight ahead through the village. Well I had decided that was what I was going to do anyway.

Just out of the village he appeared again, this time getting out of his van and walked up to me….blah blah blah he said. Mmmmm I replied, it’s this way I said. Non Non it’s that way, sending me in where ever it goes direction through a field with no real path. I don’t think he was a walker or really knew what I was doing. I think he was just taking pleasure in sending what looked like a homeless person out of the village in any direction as soon as possible.

After that exciting event I then turned left to the track I wanted to take but there was a French sign at the entrance. Now it did not say Prive so I guess it was ok but to be on the safe side I texted wifie at work. Soon she replied it was something to do with agricultural vehicles but by this time I was well on my way. I did not get shot or run off the track by an angry farmer….phew!

I continued on my journey and on a small country lane I stepped to one side to let a car pass, it stopped. O no…….a pretty young lady promptly asked if I was going to the Chateau, I understood that somehow. I replied no and showed her where I was going on the my map, she politely gazed at it, a bit like looking at pictures rather than reading the words of a book, and I said….I don’t know and drove off!

It was lunch time now so I sat down and ate my cold pasta left over from the previous night but was not succumbed to the sin of my custard chelsea bun, that was for later. I continued on my journey and in the middle of the afternoon came to Pont and here it would happen, I could not wait any longer, the chelsea bun was calling me. So I sat down in the sun and slowly devoured it. My hunger suppressed and with new energy I continued the last few kilometres to Auxonne and my home for the night.

Now Auxonne looks like a very nice place with some history, but with 28.5km under my belt I was in need of a cold beer and no more walking today please.

Total distance - 28.5 kilometres
Distance from Citeaux Abbey, Dijon - 28.5 kilometres

A leisurely stroll

Tuesday 23rd June 2015

With less than ten miles to walk today I had planned on a relaxing natural wake up, breakfast al- fresco in the sun and a peaceful gentle stroll to Citeaux Abbey where I arrived last year at the end of my long walk. Well two of those came to fruition.

I had presence of mind to check the train timetables before I went to sleep, always a good idea if you’ve never travelled from a particular station before. It transpired that there were plenty of very early or very late trains but nothing that really suited my idea of a relaxing wake up. Never mind it’s not supposed to be a holiday so I plumbed for the 8.25am train and 6.45am alarm call. Now I have become adept at the order of packing my rucsac quickly and everything has its own order in there. So I was soon on my way and chose to walk to the station rather than getting the tram.

Having been in Dijon before I knew a rather good Boulangerie so I made a bee line for it and with my very first attempt so far at French I hastened a quick and friendly Bonjour to the madam behind the counter. Bonjour she replied. I then promptly pointed at a Baguette momentarily forgetting the french word for baguette……..der! Is it not Baguette? I did manage a twa fromage, well it was written for me so that was not difficult and a tarte thon sil vous plais. Voila, I think I have got this French thing cracked. Au revoir I bid as i left, she replied Bon Journey……I just love the politeness of the French people and they can be, we Brits just don’t always seem to come across them.

I pootled off to the station to try the local lingo again now feeling full of confidence. Rachel had kindly written a few phrases I might need, so armed with that I went to the ticket office and asked ….for un billet simple a Vougeat sil vois plais, and immediately was told …..sorry it’s that counter over there you need! Now how did he guess I was English?

I tried again and was very surprised that I even managed to pronounce the station where I wanted to get off, correctly. Well I guess the old adage is practice makes perfect and I am sure I will get the hang of the language…..one day.

The train arrived and I found my place. Most of the passengers were going to work and amongst the chatter my ears pricked up and I thought I know that accent …..yep it’s Welsh. A student from across the pond from here was expressing frustration at being caught between a political in fight between two managers in his work placement. Surprisingly the student does not speak French. I bid him good morning as he got off the train…..Yorkshire he shouted back at me…..yes I replied proudly. Now you can take a man out of Yorkshire but you can’t take the Yorkshire out of a Yorkshire man!

The walk to Citeaux was so familiar, no need for any map or GPS checking. I soon left the road and into the woods to follow the path as it meandered through. As I broke cover, the sun is shining and the sky is blue and the air is deafening with silence…..it really is heaven. I took advantage of some naturally placed seats to have a breather, well a pile of logs that were situated to give a seat and a back rest, very comfy. I stayed there for a while just soaking in the view, watching a couple of Buzzards circling and riding the thermals.

After a brief respite I was soon on my way and in no time at all I arrived a Citeaux Abbey. I checked in the shop to see if Fr Bourdiet was working but he was not so it was back outside for an early lunch, a few more pages of my book, all in the sun again. After lunch I popped into the church for the Sexpt service (midday). Now I don’t know about you, but the sound of Monks praying and chanting really does give me goose bumps in the nicest sense. Whatever ails me, as soon as I hear that sound all the burdens in the world just seem to fall off my shoulders.

With the spiritual cleansing completed I set off to my second home for the night, the abbey grange. The grange is part of the original abbey, 12th century. The sleeping area in effect was the cow shed complete with channels in the floor. It sounds exceptionally awful but surprisingly it is very comfortable and well equipped for Pilgrims, as it is on the Compostela route too. Inside there are camp beds, hot shower, cooking facilities, provisions including beer and wine, all relying on the honesty of the guests that use it. Home from home…

Monday 22nd June 2015

Here we are again - Dijon to Rome via Assise

Well a lot has happened since the last blog last year apart from the obvious of being a year older and wiser. Things have not been altogether quiet, a web site is about to be launched as we speak detailing the new Pilgrim route completed last year.  

Maps and day stage walks are freely available for everyone to follow in the footsteps of the ancient monastic Pilgrims. Walk routes can be followed as a serious of either day walks, walks from Cistercian Abbey to Cistercian Abbey, walk just through the UK to Canterbury or all the way to Citeaux Abbey in Dijon.

There is even a walk within a walk. Three of the Abbeys were described by a 12 century Augustinian Scholar as ‘the shining lights of the North’ and can be completed over a long weekend. See the website for the details. (address above)

This morning I woke to retrace my steps back to Dijon today and to Citeaux Abbey tomorrow,  albeit by train from home and a twelve hour leisurely and uneventful day.  Thankfully not having to rush for trains due to being prudent and allowing for decent gaps between each leg of the journey. 

I arrived to my host for the evening Gaelle Marchal who kindly has a sofa bed I can use to rest my head. The weather here in Dijon is warm and humid, so after a quick hello it was straight into freshening up and the start of what will be many diary pages to follow. 

For this leg of the journey my French translator, walking buddy and bestest friend in the whole wide world, my wife Rachel is home, now in full time employment but not subsidising my travels. I am still eeking out my savings until I am forced back to work myself.

I am not all alone, my green Irish friend has jumped into my rucsac again and yes ‘Wee Man’ is back on his travels and you can follow him along the way on the new Abbey Walks Face Book page. As always I welcome any comments or feedback along the way, and over the next twelve weeks to my final destination.

Wee Man sneaks through passport control unseen!

Website launch imminent

Almost exactly one year after we set off on our big walk from Yorkshire to Citeaux, near Dijon in France, we are very excited at the prospect of our website being launched imminently.  This website will publish our walk notes, maps, GPS co-ordinates and photos for anyone to download for free.  It will also have lots of other interesting and exciting content - you will just have to visit the site to find out more for yourselves !

www.abbeywalks.co.uk
www.facebook.com/abbeywalks

Tony will be setting off on his next BIG walk on 23 June 2015, travelling by train to Citeaux Abbey, where we finished last year, and then walking on to Rome - another 1000 or so miles !
I, on the other hand, will remain here in the UK supporting Tony from afar and putting myself at the helm of our new on-line venture.

Final Day, and explanation

Tuesday 9 September

We had a very hearty breakfast with home-made jams, treacle / gingerbread cake ( local speciality to the Dijon area ), figs, prunes, other misc fruit, croissants and sliced loaf.  This would see us well through our final day of walking.

This day was a combination of farmer’s gravel tracks and tarmac.  We were happy with this, as it gave us brain space to contemplate our journey rather than to watch where we were putting our feet ( and wheels ).

We did the usual, ‘ what have you enjoyed most and least, will you miss most and least ‘ chit chat, and summarised various things - examples below :

Wildlife seen - cats, dogs, horses, ponies, cows, sheep, goats, hens, cockerels, peacock, camels ( circus ), deer, herons, geese, mice, lizards, snakes.

Bike incidents ( Rachel ) - 5 punctures, 1 new tyre, a set of pedals, 2 fall-offs, numerous bruises + 1 cut on legs by pedal ( when walking alongside bike on rough ground ).

Walking incidents ( Tony ) - several bovine confrontations in the UK, one pair of walking boots worn down to the sole.

Types of accommodation experienced - camping in people’s gardens, in church yards and in campsites.  Sleeping in town hall annex rooms, nursery classroom floors, a convent, a barn, on camp beds in walker’s refuges, in bed & breakfasts and in hotels.

Our destination today is Citeaux Abbey ( see further down for info on this ).  We reached it mid afternoon. We had an arrangement to meet a Brother ( monk ) from the Abbey this evening, so we popped in to arrange a time to meet later.  We then walked / cycled a further 2 miles ( oh the torture ! ) to our accommodation for the evening.  It was called ‘ Ferme de Saule ‘ Willow Farm, and was a barn owned by the Abbey, part of which had been converted ( in the loosest sense of the word ) into basic accommodation for walkers / pilgrims.  We spread our possessions around and claimed our camp beds ( we were the only people there, but better to be safe than sorry ).  We made curry noodles for tea, and got ready to go out for our evening rendezvous.  

Now that Tony was no longer logging the walk ( destination reached earlier in the afternoon ), he was excited at the prospect of him riding the bike, and me walking.  Or perhaps he could give me a ‘ croggy ‘, or ‘ backy’ for us Scots.  This we did, with surprisingly minimal wobbling, but with a few expressions of discomfort coming from me.  It was fun. 

We met with Brother Benoit, and enjoyed a very interesting and informative discussion with him whilst walking around a small Abbey garden.  We parted company with him at 8pm as he had to attend Compline at the church.  We attended too.  It was a wonderful end to our very special destination day.

Some of you may think that we have been wandering aimlessly through UK and French countryside in a general southerly direction with no particular destination or aim, just because we can.  This isn't the whole story....  

We have walked from Rievaulx Abbey (the first Cistercian abbey in the North), Helmsley, North Yorkshire, England to Citeaux Abbey ( ( home of the Cistercian Order), just south of Dijon, France.  We are creating a new long distance walk / pilgrimage between these two Cistercian Monasteries which takes in other British and French Cistercian Abbey sites.  We will be creating a website in months to come which will have GPS co-ordinates and written text for others to follow who are interested in walking this route, or just parts of it, plus other Cistercian Abbey linked walks in both the UK and in France.  Watch this space / website - www.abbeywalks.co.uk

Distance - 17 miles

Distance since Helmsley - 1006.85 miles !!!!!!!

Penultimate Day

Monday 8 September

We had some thinking and planning to do re food for the next few days.  We were passing through small villages only until Wednesday evening, so needed to stock up on staples.  I was at the Carrefour at Pesmes at 8am, and Tony set off in his walking direction.  I bought the necessary, and cycled my way to find Tony on the country lanes that he was striding along.  

Today was all tarmac again.  On these days there are no off-road walking routes ( Grand Randonnee GR routes ) on our map.  We could trail across farmer’s fields, through forests and wade our way through streams in order not to be on tarmac, but that would be far too much effort on these occasions, and also illegal.  

We were heading for a B&B - Aux Mesanges ( English translation - “To the Tits” ), our last of this trip. The sun was doing it’s thing, but we were well stocked with water and goodies.  We had a coffee and orangina break in one village, and wondered if we might actually hit 2 cafes in one day with the next village that we were due to pass through.  To no avail - the next village’s cafe shut a 2pm - we were there 2.10 pm. It was a record, however, that 2 consecutive villages actually had cafes !  Why on earth shut a cafe at 2pm on Mondays ?  I still don’t understand or appreciate or see the logic in the French working week / opening hours system.  Drives me crazy.  

The final straight was straight.  We were at the B&B at a record ( for an 18 mile day ) 3.15 pm.  We were welcomed ( rather than snarled at for being early ) by our hostess.  Tony had a luke warm bath ( just on the cusp of being cold apparently ), and he was snoozing by 4pm.  

I coordinated the washing of our clothes in our kind host’s washing machine and hung them out to dry.  Oh, how good it was to have fresh smelling clothes, know what I mean J & J ?

An early night was again had by both.

Distance - 18 miles

Distance since Helmsley - 989.85 miles ( ooh, can we do it ? )

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Sunday 7 September

We rose deliberately early in order to leave for 8 am again.  This was partly in order to arrive at our destination earlier / more resting hours in the afternoon, but also in order to walk more in the cooler hours of the day.  We imagined long ago that we would need to do this, and the time has now come ( late in the day in our trip, but nevertheless … ).  The weather has been constantly very hot for the last 10 days or so.  Lovely for sitting around doing nothing, but too hot for walking and generating ones own heat at the same time.

We walked road together, and then forest.  I decided to brave the ‘ tracks’ with the bike in order to stay with Tony.  I do quite like his company.  It was a gamble, as tracks in forests can mean shaded areas with bogs where I have come very (un)stuck before now i.e. mud gets stuck under rear mudguard and stops the rear wheel from rotating - not good.  Fortunately only minimal dirt stuck to the tyre today so didn't cause friction.  There were some deep tractor tracks to contend with though where much heaving was needed.  

After a good hour of forest work ( and some rather impressive compass and map work undertaken by Tony due to GR signs being hidden from view ), we exited the forest and moved to open field farm tracks, and then onto small country roads.  This is all so familiar to us now. 

We were heading for a campsite this Sunday evening, our last night under canvass of the trip.  I was getting slightly sentimental about the impending event.  The town was another walled medieval town called Pesmes ( pronounced ‘pem’ ).  We were both jiggered by time we arrived in the late afternoon, but knew that if we went straight to the campsite that we wouldn't take / make time later to visit the town itself.  We wandered the empty ( nothing new ) streets and visited the church.  Pesmes was indeed rather a jewel of frenchness - a fortified town on a hill above a river.  

We entered the campsite grounds, and both of our eyes fell upon the static chalets.  Ooh - we wonder if they have any of them available !?  Yes, they did indeed, so we ‘ upgraded ‘ from tent to chalet.  It was the end of another long day, and my sentimentality regarding camping had gone out of the window - stand upright, and not have to be tidy inside a small tent it was then !

Distance - 17.50 miles

Distance since Helmsley - 971.85 miles ( will we make 1000 before the trip is over ??? )